Day 12 Casar de Cáceres to Cañaveral – 33km

Well, last night’s bells were in full form, but I don’t remember hearing the 10 or 11 o’clock chimes, so I assume I slept through them—which I’m thankful for. The clocks went forward last night, which complicated matters when I was deciding whether to get up. I couldn’t figure out what time it would be if they hadn’t changed. Anyway, I got up and left before 6, feeling very relieved to find the key in the front door lock so I could get out. In fact, the door was open, and I don’t think it had been shut all night.

With no moon at the moment, the night was quite dark. As I left the town and the road turned into a wide gravel track, I kept my head torch off and could just see well enough to stay in the middle of the path while enjoying the stars and satellites sweeping across the sky.

1. Before sunrise 2. After sunrise 3. About an hour after sunrise with the temperature rising

As the sky grew brighter, I took in the beautiful heather and grasslands around me. A little later, I noticed lots of wild spring flowers. I recognized an orchid—or at least I think it was—and some lavender; I simply enjoyed admiring the rest. This was my best walking day yet, with a perfectly blue sky and a cool breeze. It was ideal walking weather.

Over a fence, I saw six or seven original Roman mile marker pillars, which appeared to be just dumped in a field. I’ve already seen such markers at various points on the Camino, but it seems so strange that they haven’t been better cared for.

The route took me down to the huge reservoir, Embalse de Alcántara. The early morning light over the water was truly stunning. The trail then joined the N-630 for 5 kilometers, crossing two bridges. Underneath and all around the bridges, there must have been well over a thousand house martins feeding on insects in the air—it was quite a spectacle. I took a picture, but I’m not sure if you’ll be able to spot them.

This is the photo with the House Martin

As I continued walking, I was passed by many groups of motorcyclists going quite fast and clearly enjoying themselves. Quite a few tooted their horns and waved. Groups of cyclists also wished me a cheerful "Buen Camino." It was lovely to see how the sunny weather and a chance to enjoy the day brought out the best in people.

I was glad to be back off the road as I climbed away from the reservoir. I found a spot with a lovely view below me and enjoyed a baguette in the sunshine. Then, it was back on the trail for a couple more hours, making my way over rough ground to Cañaveral and my albergue.

I was the first one in and quickly got myself showered, clothes washed, and bed made. Later, I went out to the local bar/restaurant, where I bumped into Ben, a Danish guy I’d met a few days earlier. He had taken a taxi from Cáceres that morning because it was too long a stage for him. We had lunch together and said our goodbyes again. After returning to the albergue to write my blog, what I really wanted to do was take a nap. I think I’ve earned that now!