Day 4 Almadén de la Plata to Monesterio – 35km

Yesterday’s rain got heavier in the evening, and as I went to bed, I could hear it pouring over the gutters and tapping on the windows. I wondered what impact it would have on today’s walk.

I got up at around 5 a.m., knowing I wouldn’t be able to get any more sleep. I gathered my rucksack, sleeping bag, and other belongings and crept out of the dorm. To my surprise, Gordon, an Australian guy I had met the day before, was already up, eating fruit for breakfast. We were both ready around the same time, so we headed out together. 

We made our way through the quiet town, past the bullring, and then into the countryside. The sky was dry with a few clouds, but we could still spot constellations, and the moonlight was just bright enough to guide our path. 

We walked through another natural park, and as it started to get lighter, I could see how beautiful the surroundings were. Watching the sun rise over such a lovely landscape was pure joy. However, last night’s rain had left its mark; we encountered multiple rivers flooding across the track. Some were easy to jump across, while others required us to use stones that someone had thoughtfully placed for crossing. At times, we had to take off our shoes and socks to wade through quite wide and fast-flowing torrents. 

At one point, I got a bit reckless and tried crossing without removing my shoes—and paid the price. In the end, it didn’t matter much because the rain started up again around 9 a.m. and continued all morning. By the time Gordon and I reached the albergue in Monesterio, our shoes were soaked through, and we were quite cold. 

The weather has been quite different from what I expected on this trip. There has been severe flooding in other regions of southern Spain, so I guess we’ve been lucky, but it has definitely had an impact on my journey so far. According to the forecast, though, we’ve got just one more day of rain before the weather improves. 

It looks like I’ve now left behind many of the pilgrims I’ve grown friendly with. Andy hurt his knee and caught the bus back to Seville to fly home. William, his wife, and Lars also had a shorter day, so I may not cross paths with them either. It’s a bit sad, but I suppose this is just part of the Camino experience—everyone walks at their own pace.

Tonight, I’m heading out with Gordon. Maybe Steve (from the U.S.) will join us?