Day 15 Aldeanueva del Camino to La Calzada de Béjar – 22km

Breakfast was a modest affair, especially for me. There were plastic boxes with people’s names on them, but mine was missing the bread. I could have taken some from another box but decided against it, settling instead for the cake and packet of biscuits. Since I don’t usually have breakfast anyway, I figured I’d manage just fine.

This morning, the Camino climbed its way up through a pass, leading me at long last into the Sierra de Gata mountains—the very ones I’d been admiring from a distance for the past four days. Slowly but surely, they drew nearer, and now I’ve crossed them. Today also marked my transition from the region of Extremadura to Castilla y León, the largest region I’ll pass through.

Along the way, I strolled through the charming town of Baños de Montemayor. It had a stretch of old Roman road complete with mile markers. The mile markers seemed in remarkably good condition, so I suspect they’re modern replicas.

After reaching the top of the pass, the Camino veered away from the main road and onto lovely countryside tracks. It was such a relief to leave the roads behind. All I could hear were the sounds of the river far below in the valley and the calls of the birds. The cuckoo’s call stood out in particular.

I encountered a local man walking his dog and wished him good morning. He responded warmly, and while I didn’t fully understand him, I think he was wishing me a good journey.

I was grateful for the shorter day today, and when I arrived at the albergue, the lady in charge seemed surprised to see someone arriving so early (10:45). She asked me, with a look of astonishment, “Finito?” I replied, “Sí, finito,” with an expression that surely conveyed my longing to simply sit down.