Day 21 Villar de Farfón to Asturianos – 32km

Yesterday, I had a lazy afternoon sitting in the sun and then relaxing under cover in the kitchen/dining area. It had a large door that opened onto the entrance and led out to the garden. Throughout the afternoon, swallows kept flying in and around the space, and one usually perched on one of the beams. I noticed that the owner had left a hole in the wall when it had been rendered, and the swallows had made a nest there. I assume there had been a nest in the same spot before the property was renovated some years ago.

Later in the day, another pilgrim arrived to stay the night, just like me. His name is Johan, and he’s from South Africa. We got along really well and spent the afternoon chatting. In the evening, the owner of the albergue made us dinner—a really tasty stew with loads of beans and chorizo. He left us with a bottle of wine and the big pot of stew. By the end of the meal, we (well, mostly I) had managed to finish it all, and I honestly couldn’t eat another bite!

After that feast, I was ready for bed. I headed to the small dorm with four beds and chose one that wasn’t a bunk bed. It even had real sheets and blankets! I think it was the best night’s sleep I’ve had on the Camino.

In the morning, we helped ourselves to tea and toast before I made a quick exit, saying goodbye to Johan. He’s planning to stay in the same albergue again this evening, so I expect I’ll see him soon.

By the time I reached the next village, my shoes were quite wet from all the morning dew. For the next stretch, I decided to take the quiet main road for about an hour. When I arrived in Mombuey, a larger village, none of the shops were open yet, so I passed through and left the road, continuing on a dry, wide path. The morning had turned lovely, and it was getting quite warm. With the blossoms on the trees and the lush green grass all around, it really felt like spring. It’s such a contrast to how things were further south.

I didn’t see any other pilgrims today, and that was just fine by me. I love walking alone, listening to the birds and spotting wildlife. At one point, I came across a herd of horses, some of which had bells around their necks. They seemed to be roaming freely in their family group, which felt so much nicer than seeing a lonely horse in a field.

I. Came into the village where I had planned to stay and managed to get some provisions (read cake) from the small shop. I then made my way to the Albergue. It wasn't due to open until 2pm so I would have an hour to wait. On my way, I met a man who asked me if I needed the Albergue or the Camino' route. I said 'Albergue' and he pointed the way. He said something else in Spanish so I said 'gracias'. A few minutes later he drove passed me in his car and drove to the Albergue. When I caught him up, I saw that he had keys and he let me in and told me where everything was. He was so kind and I thanked him again.

It’s a beautiful afternoon now, and I need to check if my washing is dry. Tomorrow brings another walk!