Day 30 A Susana to Santiago de Compostela – 11km

I slept well last night and woke with a sense of excitement about the day—walking into Santiago and finishing my Camino. My plan was to put off exploring the city today and leave that for when I return next week. Instead, I intended to catch an early morning bus from Santiago to Muxia, a town on the coast where I could relax and enjoy my achievement away from the Easter crowds in the city.

This morning’s walk was short but refreshing. Despite the squally showers that forced me to keep my waterproofs on, I pushed ahead. After a couple of hours, I found myself walking into the city. Coming in from a direction I hadn’t taken before, I was unexpectedly rewarded with a close-up view of the cathedral towers—it was stunning. The city streets were still quite quiet as I made my way toward the center and then headed off to the bus station. Arriving early, I settled on a bench, took off my rucksack and waterproofs, and waited.

About ten minutes later, a German pilgrim named Walter joined me on the bench. He was clearly another pilgrim, given his large rucksack, and we struck up a conversation right away. It reminded me how much of a bubble the pilgrimage creates—most pilgrims are friendly and readily chat or offer help. Walter and I got along well and shared stories while we waited.

I noticed a beautifully crocheted white scallop shell on Walter’s rucksack, the symbol of pilgrimage, and told him how much I admired it. He shared that it was made by a Japanese pilgrim he had befriended on the Camino and was gifted to him. Then, to my surprise, he asked if I’d like to have it. Initially, I was taken aback, worried that he might think I was asking for it, but he was genuine in his offer. It was incredibly touching, especially given we’d only known each other for ten minutes. I gratefully accepted the shell and tied it to my own rucksack. When Walter’s bus arrived, we shook hands warmly and wished each other well before parting ways.

Five minutes later, I was in line for my bus and started chatting with Mary, a British pilgrim from Dorset who now lives in London. She was visiting Muxia for the day to explore the town before moving on. When we boarded the bus, we ended up sitting together and chatting throughout the two-hour journey to the coast. As the bus arrived, we had to say goodbye, and I wished her well on her journey.

At Muxia, I checked into Bella Muxia, my albergue. Cecilia, the lady I’d met during my last visit, welcomed me warmly. When I said her name and introduced myself, she recognized me immediately, giving me a hug and telling me I was very welcome. Later in the dining room, I saw Angel, the manager, who also greeted me with a hug—it felt like a homecoming, and it was incredibly special.

The weather remained blustery and unpredictable, so I took an afternoon nap to recharge. When I woke up, I took a short walk to the church on the headland. 

My phone had warned of gales around the coast, and the winds were still fierce, but the skies had cleared to reveal patches of blue and sunlight. The sight was breathtaking—the waves crashed dramatically into the rocks surrounding the church. It was a fitting and beautiful end to the day and my Camino.

Now, I’m looking forward to a few days of rest and perhaps taking some local walks along the coast before heading back to Santiago.