Day 1 Sevilla to Guillena – 23km

Yesterday, 18th March, I got up at 3 a.m. after only a couple of hours’ sleep. I managed to eat a small breakfast and have a cup of tea. My friend Simon kindly picked me up and gave me a lift to the airport. The weather was dry and fine, though a little cold. I was thrilled to see the first sunrise of my trip, it was a beautiful morning.

My flight took me from Bristol to Malaga. As the plane descended, I could see the main rivers near the city were very full and overflowing their banks. Clearly, the area had received a significant amount of rain recently, and I wondered how this might affect my Camino. From the airport, I caught the Alsa coach to Seville (3 hours). Another couple also tried to board the bus but were told it was fully booked. I was glad I had booked it back in January.

We reached Seville in the mid-afternoon, and I made my way to the Cathedral. I wanted to buy my Credential from the Cathedral bookshop, but they were already closed for the day. The Credential is the small booklet I’ll get stamped in the Albergues or hostels where I’ll stay. It’s a way of proving I have walked the Camino and some Albergues won’t let you stay if you don’t have one. I ended up going to the pilgrim Mass at the cathedral early the next morning and then getting my Credential as soon as the book shop opened. I then went back into the cathedral for my first stamp.

For the rest of the afternoon, I wandered around the old part of the city with its beautiful cobbled streets and lovely old buildings. It was a gorgeous afternoon, and there were plenty of tourists around. I had my first paella of the trip and took some time to soak in the lively bustle around me, people-watching. 

I was quite tired by the time I found my small hostel. I checked in and got myself sorted. Early in the evening, as I lay on my bed, I realized I was just too tired to head out again. So, I had a very early night. 

This morning, I was up by 7 a.m. and felt fully refreshed after a good night’s sleep. After breakfast at the hostel, I walked to the cathedral for the early pilgrims’ Mass.  After the Mass, as soon as the book shop opened, I bought my Credential and then went back into the cathedral for my first stamp. Outside, I met two pilgrims—Lhrs and Andy, an American who lives in Germany. They had just arrived and had only just met each other. We had a short chat, and I wished them well, saying I was sure we’d meet on the trail. Sure enough, when I arrived at my hostel later, Andy came up to me, and we chatted again.

It was quite cool as I left the Cathedral and made my way through the city. There was a fair amount of traffic, and I wasn’t sorry to leave it behind. I followed a wide, flat dirt track out of the city. It was muddy in parts, but nothing compared to what was ahead in the afternoon.

Eventually, I reached Santiponce and then Italica, a very large Roman settlement. There was a large amphitheater, which was incredibly impressive, and the remains of many old buildings. These ranged from the houses of the wealthy, with their amazing mosaics—including one featuring different birds—to grand institutional buildings.

After Italica, the route ran alongside a main road and then rejoined a wide dirt track. I eventually caught up with John from Norway, who was walking for two weeks to see how far he could get. When I caught up with him, he was navigating around a flooded section of the track. We walked parallel to the track, across a muddy field. I was relieved when we returned to the track, though this process repeated itself a few times.

Later, the track led to a river that had burst its banks. There wasn’t an easy way around. Finally, I came to a large steel beam someone had placed across the water. I led the way, thinking I might fall in at any moment. The beam was underwater, so I had to feel for its sides to avoid stepping off by mistake. My shoes were soaked by now, filled with water. When I got to the other side, I heard John cry out that he said he couldn’t do it and was too scared. I offered to help, but he wouldn’t accept. He said he’d try to return to the track and walk through the deepest part instead. When I returned to the dry part of the track and looked back, I saw John heading back the way we’d come. I called out, but there was no response. Hopefully, I’ll meet up with him tomorrow on the Camino.

I carried on alone and reached my hostel at about 3:30. For a change, I had a room to myself, which was a real treat.

For dinner, I went down to the hostel’s restaurant. I was trying to decode the handwritten Spanish menu when Andy came in and asked if he could join me. We both struggled with the menu and, in the end, I picked two dishes, and he decided to have the same. We had a lovely meal and chatted for a couple of hours. 

Just as we were about to leave, Lhrs (the German guy I’d met outside the Cathedral with Andy) and John, who had left me hours earlier at the flooded track, walked in. We chatted for a while before leaving them to tackle the Spanish menu. 

A new day awaits tomorrow, and rain is forecast!