Day 25 Laza to Xunqueira de Ambía – 33km

Rain was forecast for most of the day, and after yesterday’s long walk, I wasn’t sure how far I’d be able to go. 

I was up and out early, keen to get some miles in before the rain started. Before leaving town, I had to drop off my Albergue keys at the civil emergency office. They’d told me to put them in the letterbox on the wall, but when I got there, the office was locked, and the letterbox was inside behind closed doors. Luckily, there were some freshly delivered newspapers on the doorstep, so I tucked the keys into one and just hope they find them okay. 

The first challenge of the day was a big climb—370 meters over 4 kilometers—and I wanted to tackle as much of it as possible before the rain arrived. Amazingly, I made it all the way to my next Albergue before the first drops fell. As I sit here now, looking out of the window, it’s raining steadily, and I feel grateful for my timing. 

The climb itself was tricky; the rocks were slippery, and I had to be careful not to lose my footing. As I climbed higher, I entered the clouds, and visibility was poor—but fortunately, the path kept improving as I went. I kept thinking, 'Surely, I’ve reached the top now?' But the hill had other ideas and just kept going. Finally, I hit a road that stretched across the summit and started descending, picking up my pace once I’d layered up with my jacket and hat. 

On the way down, I met a couple hiking up the far side of the mountain. They mentioned they were walking the Camino in reverse, which must make for some interesting conversations with pilgrims wondering if they’ve gotten lost! 

These buildings were made to store their crops so that they would dry without the mice and rats being able to get to them. I wonder also if they were status symbols?

Today’s route took me through several small villages, most of which felt completely silent and empty. Many of the older buildings were in ruins, dangerously close to collapse. It made me wonder—do people even know who owns these places anymore? 

Just before heading down into Xunqueira de Ambía, where my Albergue is, I ran into Dan from Texas. We had a quick chat, and he mentioned he’d be stopping in the next town. I told him I’d be doing the same, and we agreed to catch up again later in the afternoon. 

Dinner at this Albergue/bar isn’t served until 7 p.m., so for now, Dan and I had a drink together in the bar and swapped stories, our backgrounds, and how many Caminos we’ve each done.